Artificial grass installed in Dallas sits on top of a foundation made of base material, infill, and sometimes a drainage layer. What you cannot see, the ground underneath, determines whether your turf stays level, drains after a thunderstorm, holds its shape under a dog's paws, or develops odor and puddles. This guide walks you through the materials, depths, and techniques that separate a turf installation built to last from one that fails within a year. Whether you are converting a dying St. Augustine lawn, installing a dog run on black clay, or preparing a pool surround, understanding what goes under the turf and how it is compacted will help you ask the right questions and verify the work.
Dallas soil is expansive black caliche that sheds water in summer drought and turns to mud after spring storms. Proper base preparation, drainage, and infill selection are not optional details. This guide is for homeowners in Dallas and surrounding areas who want to know what a professional installation looks like and what to require in writing before work begins.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the granular material spread across the turf surface after installation. It serves multiple purposes: it props up the synthetic fibres so they stand upright and feel natural underfoot, it protects the turf backing from ultraviolet light, it adds weight to keep the turf from shifting, and it helps water drain through the system. The most common infill materials fall into a few families, each suited to different uses.
Silica sand is the baseline infill. It is affordable, widely available, and effective at ballasting turf. Silica sand is angular and compacts over time, which means it settles and may require occasional top-ups in high-traffic areas. Coated sand is silica sand that has been rounded and often tinted to match the turf colour or to reduce glare and surface heat. Rounded grains are gentler on the fibres and do not compact as quickly as sharp sand. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs moisture and odors, making it popular in pet turf and dog runs where urine can linger in the infill layer. Zeolite is more expensive than sand but performs well in high-moisture environments. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, sold under brand names such as Envirofill, are engineered to reduce bacterial growth and lower surface temperature in direct sun. These products cost more than basic sand but are worth considering for pet areas, playgrounds, and yards where heat or odor is a concern. Crumb rubber (recycled tire material) is used primarily in sports fields and athletic courts where impact absorption is critical; it is not recommended for residential yards because it retains heat, can migrate during cleaning, and is not appropriate for pet areas.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill depth is specified in pounds per square foot, not inches. A typical residential turf installation uses between 1.5 and 3 pounds of infill per square foot, depending on the turf product, fibre type, and intended use. Pet turfs and high-traffic areas often call for the higher end of that range. The amount matters because too little infill leaves the fibres floppy and unsupported, exposes the backing to UV damage, and allows the turf to shift under foot traffic or weather. Too little infill is one of the most common shortcuts taken by installers working at rock-bottom prices: they lay the turf, spread a thin layer of sand, and leave. Six months later, the fibres mat down, seams lift, and puddles form in low spots.
Every turf product has a recommended infill weight. When you request a quote, ask the installer to specify the infill type and the exact pounds per square foot in writing. Do not accept vague language such as "standard infill" or "we will use what the turf needs." A written spec protects you and ensures the installer has thought through the product. If you are comparing quotes and one installer is proposing significantly less infill than another, that is a red flag. The infill is not glamorous, but it is the difference between turf that feels good and stays level for years and turf that feels thin and develops problems within months.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The foundation under artificial grass starts with removing what is already there. If you have an existing lawn, it must be stripped away. If old turf is in place, it is removed, along with any roots, thatch, or debris. Once the surface is clear, excavation begins. The goal is to create a firm, level base that slopes slightly away from the house and any structures (such as pools) so water runs off rather than pooling. In most cases, you will excavate 3 to 4 inches, though the exact depth depends on the soil, the drainage characteristics of the turf you have chosen, and whether you are adding a drainage pad.
After excavation, the next step is optional but often recommended: a weed barrier. A landscape fabric laid over the soil prevents existing roots and new weeds from growing up through the turf. On top of that goes the base material, typically decomposed granite, crushed limestone, or recycled asphalt. This material is spread in lifts (layers) and compacted firmly with a plate compactor. Proper compaction is critical. An uncompacted base settles unevenly, creating dips and puddles where water collects and odor develops. After the base is compacted and level, an optional drainage underlay or pad may be installed, especially in pet areas, on hard surfaces, or in zones where water pooling is a concern. Finally, the turf is laid on top. On concrete patios, balconies, or other hard surfaces where water cannot drain into the ground, a perforated or fully permeable underlay is essential to keep water from sitting between the turf and the slab.
Base Prep on Dallas Caliche: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Dallas soil presents a specific challenge: the Blackland Prairie is underlain by caliche and expansive black clay that resists water infiltration and cracks in summer heat. A base that works in sandy soil will fail here. Proper base preparation on Dallas caliche means excavating below the clay layer where possible, breaking up compacted caliche if it is shallow, and installing a free-draining base of crushed rock or decomposed granite. This material is spread in 2 to 3 inch lifts and compacted firmly with a plate compactor or jumping jack. Each lift must be compacted before the next is added. The finished base, typically 3 to 4 inches deep, should be level (or graded with a gentle fall away from the house and pool) and solid enough that you can walk on it without your foot sinking.
Why does this matter? An uncompacted or poorly graded base causes the turf to settle unevenly, creating dips where water pools. Standing water in the infill layer breeds odor, especially in pet areas. Puddles also accelerate wear on the turf and can lead to seam failure. If your yard has a genuine drainage problem (water standing for hours after rain, a low spot that never dries, or runoff from uphill neighbors), that problem must be addressed before turf is installed, or the project should not proceed. Proper grading and, in some cases, a subsurface drain or regrading of the yard itself will solve the issue. We work with the site as it is and will decline a job if drainage cannot be fixed. A well-compacted, properly graded base is the foundation of a turf installation that lasts.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass is permeable: water passes through the turf and infill into the base below. The rate at which water drains is measured in gallons per hour per square foot (GPH/SF). Most residential turfs drain between 15 and 30 GPH/SF, which is fast enough to handle normal rainfall. The turf backing itself may be perforated (with small holes punched through) or fully permeable (woven or engineered to allow water through every part of the material). Perforated backing is common and effective; fully permeable backing offers slightly faster drainage and is often chosen for pet areas, playgrounds, and yards in regions with heavy rainfall or high humidity.
However, a fast-draining turf still fails on a base that does not drain. This is the most important point: drainage is a system. Water must flow through the turf, through the infill, through any underlay, through the base material, and into the soil or a drain system. If any layer is compacted, blocked, or impermeable, water backs up. In pet areas and during monsoon-season thunderstorms, drainage is tested severely. A turf that drains well on a sandy base may puddle on Dallas caliche if the base is not properly prepared. On hard surfaces such as concrete patios or balconies, an underlay or drainage pad is mandatory. It sits between the turf and the slab, allowing water to escape to the edges rather than sitting between the turf and the concrete. Without it, water pools, the turf stays wet, and odor develops. When you receive a quote, ask for the drainage rate of the turf and confirm that the base will be graded and compacted to drain. Do not accept vague promises; ask for specifics in writing.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The details that separate a professional installation from a rushed one show up at the seams, edges, and corners. Seams are joined using seam tape (a specialized adhesive-backed fabric) and turf adhesive. The two pieces of turf are laid with the grain (the direction the fibres lean) aligned so the seam is invisible. The tape is pressed firmly along the entire length, and the adhesive is applied underneath. A poor seam is visible, feels rough underfoot, or lifts at the edges within weeks. Nails or staples secure the turf perimeter at the correct spacing, typically every 6 to 8 inches. Spacing that is too wide allows the turf to shift or lift in wind or under foot traffic. Spacing that is too tight can pucker the turf or damage the backing.
Edges must be clean and secured. Perimeter material such as bender board (flexible plastic edging) or metal trim holds the turf in place and creates a finished look. On patios and pool surrounds, the turf is cut tight to the paver or deck edge so water drains off rather than pooling at the boundary. After installation is complete, the turf is power broomed. A power broom (a mechanical brush) stands the fibres upright, spreads the infill evenly, and removes any footprints or wrinkles left during installation. A properly finished turf looks full and uniform. If you see visible seams, lifted edges, wrinkles, or bare spots where infill has not been spread, those are signs the installation was rushed or the installer lacked care. When you inspect finished work, walk the perimeter, press on the seams, and run your hand across the surface. It should feel firm, level, and seamless.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any work begins, request a written specification from your turf installer. A spec is not a sales agreement; it is a detailed list of what will be installed, how deep it will be, what materials will be used, and how long the workmanship is warranted. A complete spec includes the following: the turf product name and fibre type (polyethylene, nylon, or polypropylene), the face weight (measured in ounces per square yard), the pile height (the length of the fibres), the backing type and drainage rate (in gallons per hour per square foot), the infill type and the amount in pounds per square foot, the base material and depth (typically 3 to 4 inches, compacted), whether a weed barrier will be installed, the seam method and edging material, cleanup and haul-off of old turf and debris, and the workmanship warranty period (typically one to three years on the installation itself). The spec should also note any site-specific conditions, such as grading requirements or drainage concerns.
A written spec protects you by making expectations clear and giving you something to compare across quotes. It also holds the installer accountable. If the turf installed does not match the spec, you have a record of what was promised. Do not accept a quote that lists only a price per square foot and a brand name. Ask for the face weight, pile height, infill pounds, and base depth in writing. If an installer resists providing a spec or says "we will use what the turf needs," that is a warning sign. A professional turf company knows its products and can specify them. For a free estimate, we measure your yard on site, discuss your needs, and provide a written spec before any commitment. See our pricing page for more information on how we approach each project.